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Book: Accidental Discovery


The Lady Rosa's Story

By Maurice J. Czarniak (first published in 1992)

"It is through the eyes of a child that an adult learns"

It is undoubtedly true that the world is preoccupied, amongst other things such as longevity, with beauty, being beautiful, wanting to be beautiful, wanting to be noticed, and for what reason? Perhaps it is one of wanting to be loved, wanting to belong, to be cared for, to be important.

We are all guilty in our lives at one stage or another of vanity. A vanity that has been created by Western Advertising , that expects success only to flow from and be associated only with beauty, and yet, beauty in reality is in the eye of the beholder and that eye when it is sufficiently wise sees beauty in all things and realizes the beauty conceived by nature is a multifaceted phenomenon that knows no boundaries. However, it is encapsulated by Western attitudes and idealism in its striving to create artificial beauty for one purpose only, the generation of monies.

How sad that our world is so preoccupied with such an attitude, for it invariably leads to the destruction of individuals both innocent and guilty by the instrument of Greed.

So what should we do? Perhaps we should cast our eyes upon a Child, a photograph - of a young child, a girl, and try to understand what she knows, for children are far wiser than we give them credit.

What does this young girl with an enigmatic smile upon her radiant face, beautifully dressed in angelic white, seated in a garden , with a preoccupation for red roses, know?

She knows that in Nature there is no such thing as Dirt! Everything is in balance and everything irrespective what it is,however man describes it,has a purpose.Cycles within cycles,systems within systems, every thing that has been created has a purpose, and everything bears a mark,a sign,that signifies purpose,whether it be beneficial or detrimental and even these assignments are relative in Nature, for the definition of purpose or effect is dependent upon geography, concentration and inter-relationship with others.

It would appear that mans preoccupation with himself, his personal gain, has with time lost his ability to read the signs, whereas a child, who views the world with simplistic vision, sees so clearly, even though naively, the symbols of Nature. A child so beautiful, so loving, so warm, is a gift. A child is beauty, from within and not within.

Lady Rosa, a trained hairdresser, beautician, lived in Europe, she possessed a great love and devotion for children. Her devotion was even the more so, for she lived during the Great Depression and World Wars I and II. She was horrified by the atrocities seen in those times.

She wished like many of us for a better world. A world that cared primarily for children. Lady Rosa devoted her energies to her business, for one purpose only, to raise enough funds to keep as many poor children alive as possible. That was her purpose in Life. A necessity born out of devotion.

She went about her work with vigor. She realized that her purpose would only be successful if she could create products of incomparable quality and performance.

Her love of children and the time spent with children rekindled her child like mind and vision. Lady Rosa recognized the transparent skin that children possessed and she wondered why it did net persist in all, well.into adult life.

She like many others realized that what many people and companies were saying about cosmetic Moisturizers and exotic nourishing creams was not strictly correct and that there had to be one element in skin physiology that ensured the preservation and evolution of Natural Beauty.

Lady Rosa was concerned that only Natural Beauty be addressed. She did not believe in acquired artificial beauty, for this was transient and false and represented vanity in its utmost form.

Lady Rosa recognized the need for women to maintain their outward beauty during conditions of poor nutrition and stress. She embarked upon producing a nourishing cream that would overcome these difficulties. She felt that if a woman saw that her beauty was restored it would give hope and with such hope great things could be achieved. Life would seem better, happier , confidence restored, it would enable a woman to carry on and reverse adverse conditions and in doing so further prevent stress and illness.

Lady Rosa set about thinking simply formulating and producing small batches of different creams and testing these upon clients free of charge. After a while, one, stood out from the rest and initially Lady Rosa could not understand why. This precious nourishing cream it seemed had the capability of restoring and preserving a woman's Natural Beauty.

A little research amongst scientific books of the day gave her a few answers. However what mattered were the results. She found that her precious nourishing cream imparted a healthy glow upon the skin, firmed dermal tissue, helped to reduce the intensity of wrinkled skin, retuned creepy tissue and left behind a smooth protective film.

These results were observed with diligent use of the product. Young ladies responded the quickest whilst the more mature lady took longer. These results reflected the importance of Cholesterol, Essential Amino Acids and genuine Rose Oil in skin physiology.

It must be stressed that Lady Rosa was capable of designing a cream system that allowed the expression of these ingredients in a synergistic and individual fashion. The addition of any fashionable substance into any cream or otherwise does not guarantee that it will have any influence in the consumer.

Today through research we understand more about the substances that Lady Rosa used. Cholesterol although much maligned for its "dirty role" in "causing" heart and vascular disease, is really in all due respects, a very beneficial naturally occurring sub­stance.

The Creator in His Infinite Wisdom, scattered it throughout the Universe. It is only our skeptical and destructive attitudes that prevent proper understanding of this substance and its importance.

Cholesterol was discovered in 1770, in gallstones by Polluter de La Sale. Since then it has been identified in practically all living organisms, animal, vegetable and microscopic.

It is present in bacteria, blue green algae, fungi, the skin and sebum are rich in Cholesterol. It has been found in sea water (Gulf of Mexico) and a theoretical explanation has been given of the formation of various compounds found in crude petroleum from Cholesterol.

Commercial sources of Cholesterol include, lanolin alcohols (this explains why wool workers have beautiful skin on their hands and forearms through much contact) animal fats, fish oils and spinal cords (nervous tissue is high in content and expectant women should not reduce their Cholesterol intake during pregnancy this will lead to imperfect nerve formation and nervous dysfunction in the fetus)

In a man weighing 65 kilo there is approximately 210gm of Cholesterol. The largest single amount being in the skin.

Cholesterol is an important physiological component of cells. It is bound to lipoprotein as part of the external membranes,it is a necessary growth factor in cells. It serves as a precursor to steroid hormones, in adrenals, ovaries and testes. Fingernails and the enamel of teeth contain Cholesterol and it forms high to low concentrations of hair fat in boys and men. Cholesterol increases the formation of Vitamin D3 in the skin.

Cholesterol in products has been used as a skin protectant and in the treatment of skin disorders.

Incorporation of 1% Cholesterol to Olive Oil increases the absorption of Olive Oil by the skin. Cholesterol has been used in hair tonics to stimulate hair growth.

Cholesterol is an optically active compound that can eliminate polarization light and therefore has sunfiltering effect and prevents sun induced erythema of the skin.

Cholesterol is formed in situ in the skin and oily skin contains much Cholesterol. Exposure to the sun favors its formation , interference with Cholesterol synthesis causes dryness and chapping.

The lipid film of normal skin dermis derives from the epidermis and sebaceous glands. The bulk of the Cholesterol in the skin in the skin fats is from keratinising epidermis.

A certain zone within the horny layer of the skin known as the "barrier" is said to be responsible for inhibiting diffusion of water. The power of this barrier to retain water is due to the presence of lipids found in connection with keratinisation. These barrier Lipids contain up to 90% Cholesterol. It seems that Cholesterol is intimately associated with water and its retention. Water as we know is one of the major basis of LIFE.

The composition of human skin lipids changes from birth to puberty. Cholesterol concentration is low at five days of age, increasing to a maximum between four to eight years of age (at this age one could argue the skin is at its most beautiful) and between ten to fifteen years it decreases to adult levels. In aged skin there is a dramatic drop in Cholesterol content. It is also very low in balding men and balding women. Psoriasis also demonstrates reduced skin Cholesterol content, and controversy exists with respect to low skin Cholesterol level and the formation of skin Cancer.

Cholesterol added to Petrolatum (white soft paraffin-Vaseline) shows a marked effect upon the behavior of Petrolatum. Instead of being "greasy and sitting on the skin surface and thereby inhibiting perspiration and surface cooling, the Cholesterol enriched pro­duct is more compatible with the skin and more readily penetrates the skin by 33%. Cholesterol addition also improves the cleansing action of Petrolatum by l200%. This influence is also seen with other products that do not ordinarily penetrate the skin.

Cholesterol in combination with Lecithin, Linoleic Acid and Alcohol, this mixture it has been claimed, promoted the healing of burns, stimulated hair growth and inhibited the growth of Herpes Virus.

The "Barrier" of the skin besides containing Cholesterol also contains Amino Acids, largely essential. The "Barrier" of the skin is extended over the horny, and mature granular layer. Its quality is not constant during the course of time. It varies diurnally and seasonally depending on the humidity and temperature of the environment. It appears easily adaptable to changing conditions and when it meets more severe inflictions from the outside, a temporary layer is formed,which is apparent from the scaling occurring after some 5 days. Although this temporary layer is functionally superior in terms of its water barrier formation and resistance to irritants, its mechanical qualities soon become deficient. It is therefore replaced by the so-called final barrier, whose properties gradually improve semi­-logarithmically with a half-value of about 7 days.

In order for the Barrier, temporary barrier and final barrier to be functionally correct, it requires adequate supplies of all of its precursors and components, therefore the blood supply and diet must be adequate in the first instance to allow their production by. the responsible dermal cells.

The pages of Tables and diagrams give an insight into the structure of Human skin, the etiology and distribution of dry, aged skin and the importance of dermal components such as collagen, elastin, fibrin, lipids, sebum and the "barrier".

Lady Rosa correctly deduced the importance of Cholesterol and essential Amino Acids. These she incorporated in her product in a system that was accessed by dermal cells. Problems such as poor diet and localized deficiency states were then overcome.

We have discussed the importance of Cholesterol but what of essential Amino Acids, what do we know of these? Specific examples will show how vital these are.

The twenty Amino Acids involved in protein biosynthesis are divided into two broad groups-essential and nonessential. Phenylalanine, valine,thranine, tryptophan, isoleucine, methionine, lysine and leucine must be part of the diet as these cannot be manufactured from dietary sources, these are then essential. In addition Histidine and arginine also are required in children. The remaining Amino Acids are considered nonessential.

Certain situations can exist when nonessential become essential, for example, arginine is required for optimal repair processes to occur in the physically traumatized adult.

Arginine is currently a hot item in the food supplement marketplace. Its growing appeal has been fueled by claims that it manages to burn fat while building muscle. It does in fact possess a stimulating effect upon human growth hormone. This in turn favorably influences the synthesis of those proteins that contribute to the repair process. In mice it has been found to stimulate the immune system and produce more highly active white cells. This has also been confirmed in humans so that it is suggested that arginine supplementation in diet will beneficially boast the immune system

Arginine in laboratory animals has demonstrated a significant antitumour effect in virus induced cancer, via its influence upon growth hormone. Arginine it is concluded is required for optimum growth of normal tissue whilst retarding tumor development.

Cysteine a sulfur containing amino acid is said to inactivate free radicals and thus protect and preserve cells. This is in keeping with other sulfur containing amino acids such as methionine and taurine. Cysteine given as a food supplement to guinea pigs and mice significantly increased the life span of cells and the whole animal. It has also been suggested to participate in some forms of DNA repair. Cysteine is a precursor of glutathione a tripeptide which has been reported to eliminate certain toxic chemicals by binding to them and thus rendering them harmless. Rats fed methionine and cysteine deficient diets have lower levels of enzymes that are protective against carcinogens.

Cysteine in conjunction with pantothenic acid had positive effects on patients suffering from osteoarthritis and rheumatoid arthritis.

Cysteine used topically has demonstrated a dramatic influence on wound healing by increasing the rate of healing (by 50%) and quality of repair, in conditions such as grazes, varicose ulcers, burns, psoriasis, lichen simplex, collagen formation and maturation. These observations were similar for the other sulfur containing amino acids.

Methionine and Taurine are both very important in numerous processes in man. Taurine is an important regulator of various nerve and muscle systems and it may be essential for proper growth of these. Retarded growth has been noted in monkeys fed taurine free diets, and cats have suffered retinal damage on such diets.

The important role above would have to be that of the nervous system, for within the human physiology no system can exist without an intact nervous system. Once the innervation is terminated or damaged so invariably is that which it supplies. This applies to dermal and deeper tissues.

The final component of Lady Rosa's nourishing cream to consider is real Rose Oil.

Culpeper writes:
"Red roses are under Jupiter, damask under Venus and white under the Moon. The decoction of red roses made with wine is very good for the headache and pains in the eyes, ears, throat and gums, as also for the lower parts of the belly. The heads with the seed being used in powder or in a decoction stayeth diahorrea and spitting of blood. Red roses do strengthen the heart, the stomach, the liver, and the retentive faculty.

Red rose water is well known, and of familiar use on all occasions, and better than damask rose water, refreshing, quickening the weak and faint spirits, used either in meats or broths, to wash the temples, or to smell the sweet vapors thereof out of a perfuming pot or cast into a hot fire shovel. It is also of good use against the redness and inflammations of the eyes, to bathe them therewith and the temples of the head, as also against pain and ache and to procure rest and sleep, if some thereof is applied to the nose, nostrils and temples. The ointment used similarly, as also for pushes, wheals and other red pimples rising in the face or other parts.

The syrup of damask roses is both simple and compound and made with agaric (a mushroom) This simple solutive syrup is safe, gentle and easy medicine, purging choler, taken one ounce to three or four, yet this is remarkable herein, that the distilled water of this syrup should bind the belly. The compound and syrup is more forcible in working on melancholic humors and available against the leprosy, itch, tetters and the French disease.

So we read that rose oil has more benefits than simple being used in food as a flavor or in Turkish Delight. It is used in aromatherapy but would probably be replaced with synthetic variants. Proper pure rose oil depending upon its source costs at this time of writing (1992) between $6000 to $20,000 per liter, whereas the synthetic variants are around $125 to $250 per litter. These do not possess the same properties as real rose oil and there­fore are used as fragrances only without any other effect.

Lady Rosa's nourishing cream incorporates real rose oil, as this constitutes a vital part of the formulation and excellence of effect.

How good is Lady Rosa"s nourishing cream? Observations made by users of the product and its manufacturer confirm that it is without question an excellent skin nutrient with the capacity to reverse premature aging to a degree not previously experienced and at the same time to preserve that beauty provided that it was used on a regular basis. This was seen in both ladies and gentlemen.

A side effect of using the product was the stimulation of strong and vigorous fingernail growth.

Lady Rosa"s nourishing cream imparts a health~glow upon the skin, firms dermal tissue, reduces the intensity of wrinkled skin, retones crepy tissue and leaves behind a smooth protective film. This is seen with once daily application.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

- ROSENHEINZ,BIOCHEM J,1926,20,537
- STEROID BIOCHEMISTRY,E HOFTMAN ACADEMIC PRESS 1970 p70
- MATHEWS W. LIPIDS 1968 3(3) 239-46
- CURPHEY E,J.INST PETROLEUM 1950,36,303-7
- GRUNDY S J.LIPID RES.1969 16(3) 304-15
- NICOLAIDES N J.INVEST DERMATOL 1952,19,389-91
- WILLIAMS J. J,LIPID RESEARCH 1965,6,461-464
- EDGAR S DRUG COSM IND FEB 1975 54
- LESLIE G MED. J.6.85 1961
- ROSENBERG B F SURG.GYNAEC.OBSTRET l2l 1021 1965
- WILLIAMSON M.B. PROC.SOC.BIOL.MED 80 623 1952
- BARBUL W. J.PAR ENT NUIT. 4:446 1980
- SEIFER S SURGERY AUG 1978 224
- SURGERY AUG 1981 224
- RETTURA ET AL J PAR ENT MED 3:409 1979
- WEITZMAN ET STOSSEL IMMUN 128:270 1982
- MEDICAL WORLD NEWS, OCT 7 1978
- HAYES & STURMAN ANN REVIEW NUIT 1:401 1981
- GER.OFFEN.2,841,346
- STRIANSE S.J. COS TOIL.93 APRIL 1978 37
- SCHEUPLEIN R.J. PHYSIO REV 51702,1972
- WHEATLEY V R J INVEST DERMAT 49 198 1967
- JACOBI 0 K PROC.SCI.SEC.TOIL.GOODS ASSOC.31 22 1959
- LADE.K. J.S.C.C. 18 351 1967


Click to Enlarge Diagrams

Click to Enlarge Diagrams

TABLE 1.   ANATOMICAL OCCURRENCE OF DRY SKIN
Head, face and neck 27.7%
Trunk and back Nil
Arms, forearms 17.7%
Hands 20.8%
Legs and thighs 19.2%
Feet 14.6%


TABLE 2.   NUMBER OF YEARS DRY SKIN PRESENT
1 - 2 years 11.3%
2 - 4 years 22.3%
4 - 10 years 41.6%
10. - 20 years 21.3%
20 - on 3.5%


TABLE 3.    CAUSE OF DRY SKIN
Ageing process 8.9%
Doubtful - unknown 8.9%
Detergent induced, house and garden work 12.3%
Dry weather, cold weather 36.6%
Dermatitis, eczema 5.6%
Drug induced 1.1%
Hot showers 6.7%
Genetic disposition 3.3%
Menstruation, hormonal fluctuations 1.1%
Nervous conditions 2.2%
Shaving of legs 1.1%
Sun surf, salt water 8.9%
Vitamin A deficiency 3.3%


TABLE 4 PERFORMANCE OF AQEUOUS CREAM APF AND HEALFAS IN COMPARISON TO PROPRIETRY BRANDS PURCHASED
Aqeous Cream APF Healfas MF
Equal to 10.12% 27.84%
Better than 7.6% 54.44%
Less than NIL NIL


TABLE 5.  AMINO ACID ANALYSES OF DERMAL COLLAGEN AND ELASTIN (RESIDUES/1000 TOTAL RESIDUES)
Amino Acid Collagen Elastin
Hydroxyplen 94.1 6.4
Aspartic acid 45.0 2.8
Threonine 17.5 4.8
Serine 35.6 5.6
Glutamic acid 73.0 15.0
Proline 128.0 149.4
Glycine 330.0 330.0
Alanine 110.0 294.4
Valine 24.4 103.7
Methionine 6.2 --
Isoleucine 9.5 10.9
Leucine 24.3 51.1
Tyrosine 2.8 16.8
Phenylalanine 12.0 20.8
Isodesmosine -- 1.2
Desmosine -- 1.6
Hydryoxylysine 5.8 --
Lysine 26.9 3.8
Histodine 4.8 --
Arginine 51.0 3.6




TABLE 9.   THE PROBABLE COMPOSITION OF PURE HUMAN SEBUM
Free Fatty Acids 5%
Glycerides 50%
Waxes 20
Squalene 10%
Branched Hydrocarbons 5%
Sterols
  Cholesterol (Free) 1%
  Choleserol esters 4%
  Other sterols 1%
Other substances 4%


TABLE 10.  COMPOSITION OF THE LIPIDS FROM THE EPIDERMS
Free Fatty Acids 3.0%
Combined Fatty Acids 60.3%
Nonsaponifiable 36.9
  Squalene 3.0%
  Other hydrocarbons 10.0%
  Wax alcohols 2.0%
  Sterols (total) 9.3%
    7-dehydrocholesterol 0.3%
    Other fast-acting 0.1%
    Free Cholesterol 7.4%
    Esterified Cholesterol 1.5%




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